The first thing you need is the right surfboard. Most people make the mistake
of trying to learn how to surf on a board that is too short. They see
pros riding short boards and think that's what they need. This is wrong and
will only make you frustrated and give up trying to learn.
Make sure you get a surfboard that is a least 9' long. You want it to be thick
and wide as this will insure it's buoyant and stable. A good choice
for learning are those soft-top boards that are like giant Boogie Boards.
Practice these first steps on the sand before you
get in the water:
1. Lay the board with it's fin, (or skeg), down in the sand so the top, (or
deck), is facing up.
2. Lay on the board on your stomach so your head is about 2/3 of the way towards
the front, (or nose), of the board. Since you will spend a lot of time laying
on your board you should invest in a rash
guard or other UV protective surf shirt such as a StayDry
Shirt to protect your stomach from getting a rash and your back from getting
sunburned.
3. This next part is done all in one, quick motion: bring your hands up near
your chest and grab the sides of the board then jump up and bring your feet
up to where your hands are so you are now crouched on your feet and holding
the board. Be sure you bring your feet up and under you so you are
on
your feet
near the center of the board and that one foot is ahead of the other, (which
foot is up to you).
4. Slowly stand upright as you bring your arms out to the sides for balance.
Be sure to keep your knees bent.
Practice this technique,(called a 'pop-up'), until you can quickly and smoothly
jump to your feet in one motion.
Now you're ready to hit the water.
Go to a beach that either has small, gentle waves or lots
of whitewater you can ride on. Whitewater, (or soup), is the water that rolls
towards the shore after a wave has broken. It's the best place for learning
as it will be easier to catch when you paddle. You can also
have someone stand in the whitewater and push you into the wave while
you lay on the board.
Enter the water pointing the nose towards the waves and lay on your
board.
IMPORTANT: You want to lay on the board so that the
nose of the board doesn't dip into the water OR point up out of the water too
high. When you start to paddle you want the nose to be parallel with the water,
just skimming the surface.
To paddle keep your head up, your legs together on the board and cup your
hands as you reach out into the water and draw them back along the sides of
the board. Bring them out of the water down by your hips smoothly and without
a lot of splash.
Once you're out and white water is coming towards you turn
and point your board towards the shore, lay in the correct spot, (nose skimming
the water) and start paddling. When you feel the wave pick you up and start
to push you wihtout
you having
to paddle you're ready to 'pop-up', (see step #3).
It will take some practice but by the end of the day you'll have a lot of
fun, get a great workout and be surfing. Just get yourself a rash
guard and
some board shorts and you'll be a total surfer, dude!